02/17 - Uros, then Bolivia

We got up early and took a boat tour out to the floating islands of the community of Uros, in Lake Titicaca. The islands are made of reeds, and more are stacked on top every 2 weeks to maintain them. As soon as we hopped off the boat, each islander grabbed a few tourists and dragged them into their hut. The woman who grabbed us was named Alicia. She dressed us up in native clothes and encouraged us to take lots of pictures. This, it turned out, was a ploy to acquire loyalties for when it was then time for all the islanders to sell their wares at us.

Our boat took us back to Puno, and we caught a 2:30pm bus to Copacabana, Bolivia-- the other side of Lake Titicaca. The border-crossing was confusing. There was a lot of paperwork, and we didn't know US citizens have to pay $135 to cross. But we got through, and it was worth it. The lake is deeper and wider on that side. Puno is on a smaller bit, but Copacabana felt more like being on the ocean. However, it was getting dark when we arrived, so we didn't go down to the water until morning. We arranged two nights at "Hostal el Dorado," which would not be very good. There was no shower curtain, so the lukewarm water sprayed all over the bathroom. At night, the floor was very cold, and was always soaking wet. Of course, we didn't know that when we checked in.

I was feeling sick, so we got cold medicine at the pharmacy below the hotel, then went exploring. There were 5 or 6 stages with live music, all around the main square. Everyone was drinking and dancing and drinking. They would see an empty cup, and fill it from a large glass bottle of beer. Nearly everyone seemed to have big red plastic cases of these "Pilsen" beers. We ate a cheap meal from a curbside cart: salted meat slab -pounded flat & fried- served on white rice, with fried egg & pickled vegetables on top. A local man was slumping heavily on his wife, spooning rice into his mouth, eyes mostly closed. But he was far too drunk for eating, so all the rice was falling down his sparkly costume, back onto the plate in his lap. We also met a nice German couple, who highly recommended touring Isla del Sol. I bought 10 cough drops for 1 Boliviano. Then we went to bed.